Paris Men’s Fashion: Saint Laurent Unveils Unrefined Sophistication

Saint Laurent showcased a compelling menswear collection at the Bourse de Commerce in Paris, bringing the spotlight back to fashion with a show that creatively interpreted James Baldwin’s novel, Giovanni’s Room.

Quick context

This presentation took place on January 27, 2026, post the official end of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which wrapped up on January 25. The unique timing was necessitated by the availability of the Bourse de Commerce, which was occupied until the conclusion of the “Minimal” exhibition. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello chose to step outside the conventional schedule, affirming the growing recognition of his menswear line.

Collection inspiration

The Fall-Winter 2026-2027 collection drew inspiration from Baldwin’s exploration of identity and desire in Giovanni’s Room. The novel delves into the conflicted emotions of a young American navigating his bisexuality in Paris. Vaccarello was particularly intrigued by the setting of Giovanni’s room, where themes of secrecy and societal norms intermingle. This contemplative approach infused the collection with dark yet elegant aesthetics that echo the 1950s.

Notable designs

• The collection features suits in shades of black, anthracite, chocolate, and navy crafted from wool crepe and flannel.
• Innovative silhouettes are highlighted through slightly dropped shoulders and tapered trousers, accentuating sensuality.
• Distinctive elements include a baby-blue poplin pajama underneath a large glazed leather coat, coupled with high vinyl socks and a stiff PVC trench.
• The show was staged dramatically, with male models pacing through a circular space beneath a striking 40-meter-high dome, enhancing its thematic depth.

Future prospects

Vaccarello, who marks a decade in charge of Saint Laurent this spring, hinted at expanding the brand’s horizon into film production. Rights to adapt Giovanni’s Room have been acquired, possibly by an attendee of the show, underscoring the profound connection between art and fashion. Following the show, he hosted a dinner at his studio, celebrating both the collection and his ten-year milestone in the fashion world.

Original source: Open the source