Replacing a kitchen faucet is one of the best DIY projects for the value it returns per hour of work. A new faucet transforms how a kitchen looks and feels, the cost of the part is the main expense, and the labor involved is genuinely manageable for anyone comfortable lying on their back under a sink with an adjustable wrench. The part most guides do not tell you: the job is mostly about access, not technical skill.
Plan for one to two hours the first time. Most of that time is spent in the awkward position under the sink, not actually doing complicated work.
What to buy before you start
Match the new faucet to your sink’s hole configuration. Most kitchen sinks have one, two, or three pre-drilled holes. A single-hole faucet works in a one-hole sink. A two-handle faucet with a separate sprayer typically needs three holes. If your new faucet uses fewer holes than your sink has, the extra holes can be covered with a deck plate that usually comes with the faucet or can be purchased separately.
Also check the supply line connection size (usually 3/8-inch compression) and whether the shut-off valves under your sink have standard connections. Most do. If your shut-offs look old or are the kind that require a tool to operate, this is a good time to replace them too while the water is off.
You will need an adjustable wrench, a basin wrench (a special angled tool for reaching the faucet mounting nuts from below, a regular wrench cannot reach), plumber’s tape, and a bucket for catching residual water. A basin wrench costs under $20 and is the one tool that makes or breaks this job. Find it and the new faucet on Amazon. For a full plumbing-ready tool kit, HOTO Tools has compact options that cover the wrenches and drivers this job requires.
Shutting off the water and removing the old faucet
Turn off the hot and cold shut-off valves under the sink. Turn the faucet handle to open to release pressure and let the remaining water run out. Place a bucket under the supply line connections before loosening anything.
Use the adjustable wrench to disconnect the supply lines from the shut-off valves. Then use the basin wrench to reach up and loosen the mounting nuts holding the faucet to the underside of the sink. These are the nuts you cannot reach with a standard wrench because they sit directly against the underside of the sink deck. The basin wrench’s long handle and pivoting jaw are designed specifically to reach them.
Once the mounting nuts are loose, the faucet lifts straight up and out from above. Pull out the old supply lines at the same time.
Installing the new faucet
Read the instructions that come with the new faucet before you start the installation. Every faucet is slightly different in how the mounting hardware assembles, and the manufacturer instructions show you the correct order.
The general process: thread the supply lines down through the sink hole, drop the faucet body into position from above, go back under the sink and hand-thread the mounting nut or nuts onto the faucet shank. Use the basin wrench to tighten them firmly. You want snug, not over-tightened. Over-tightening can crack the faucet base or the sink deck on thinner sinks.
Wrap plumber’s tape clockwise around the threaded ends of the supply lines before connecting them to the shut-off valves. Connect the supply lines: hot line to the hot shut-off (usually on the left), cold to cold. Hand-tighten first, then snug with the adjustable wrench. One-quarter turn past hand-tight is usually enough.
The part most guides skip: testing for leaks
Turn the shut-off valves back on slowly. Let the water run for 30 seconds, then get back under the sink with a dry cloth or paper towel and feel around every connection point. A supply line connection that has even a tiny weep will be wet. Tighten it one-quarter turn more. Recheck. A joint that continues to weep after tightening may need the supply line disconnected, retaped, and reconnected.
Also check around the base of the faucet on the sink deck. If water is seeping under the faucet body, the deck gasket or the plumber’s putty seal is not seated correctly. This requires removing the faucet and reinstalling with proper sealing.
For related plumbing projects that build on the same skills, see how to fix a leaky faucet for minor repairs and how to fix a leaky outdoor faucet for the exterior version of the same type of work.
For the complete home maintenance approach that keeps both your budget and your home in good shape, see the spring home maintenance checklist. And if you are building the confidence to tackle these repairs yourself and want a practical framework for prioritizing home projects, the Broke Mom Home Reset ($17) is the resource that makes it approachable.
